#PALERMO 3 days #marathon

Back to Sicilian ground - PALERMO 

It is the second time I find myself in Palermo - my first visit (on my way to Trapani and Valencia) left me craving for more & I gladly keep such promises!

The February heat amazes and delights me… It’s not a surprise, it’s an expected blessing! The moment I touch Sicilian ground I feel at home… At the Punta Raisi airport we grab a transfer to the main train station, the gate to the beautiful city centre - the architecture, the colors, people and energy everywhere - so invigorating!

It’s Friday night (about 8 pm) and the streets are just as busy as they were at 10 am: That’s my good old Sicily!

We hurry towards the apartment I booked - last time I was here I chose a typical local hotel, 100-year-old building in perfect condition, high ceilings, French balcony & opulent breakfast. This time I wanted to get even closer to the sociable locals, so I booked a wonderful room with a view to the Corso Vittorio Emanuele - I spent years exploring Italy and the South (starting with Rome) was always the region I found myself at home in - I seem to make myself at home in many places in the world: in Palermo, the atmosphere and the people did the trick and I just fell in love with the place.

Walking down the Via Roma I recognize my ex-hotel, even the ‘Bar Roma’, where 4 years before I had a cappuccino + cornetto - the street changed a lot though…  we stop in one of the many welcoming tiny bars, we have orange juice with a cannolo (you just cannot be in Palermo and not have a cannolo - that would be a sacrilege!) & as usual, I start chatting with the bar owner, asking about politics, Renzi & the December 2016 referendum - it is that easy to have simple friendly conversation (provided you know Italian, naturally).

Then we continue our search, we find the Aparthotel - super-friendly owner, answering all my insider-questions.

And 20 minutes later the dinner decision was already made - we’re heading to the cathedral & on our way I discover the restaurant ‘Primi Piatti’, hidden in a narrow side-street: Vicolo San Giuseppe D’Arimatea.

Of course it’s tough to chose only one of the equally inviting ristoranti or trattorie, just as it’s difficult to chose one of the delicious dishes on the menu - as far as restaurants are concerned, I always look for the authentic ones, mostly situated out of public sight; when it comes to pasta & local ingredients I’d personally recommend any sort ‘involving’ ricotta & eggplants - it does not get more ‘Palermitano’ than that !

After dinner we just could not miss out on seeing the cathedral by night & taking a walk in the Piazza della Vittoria - it’s amazing to admire il Palazzo dei Normanni, la Cappella Palatina & la Porta Nuova - medieval history only a glance away... and these would be only some of the highlights - the entire centre reveals medieval traces… the authentic narrow streets or surprising squares everywhere are real sights for sore eyes !

Next morning I come up with a new a mission: to find out about more treasures of the city & track down the best pastry shop around - in Italy I can have a sweet tooth - it pays off !

So we have breakfast with the hotel owner & his employee, my compatriot - even from the same region!! yes, the world is indeed that small - and I get my answers.

Now the exploration can continue : right across the street from our hotel we discover the impressive Piazza Pretoria (or Piazza della Vergogna), with the fountain, the church Santa Caterina,

Palazzo Bonocore & Palazzo Pretorio - everything erected in the 16th century... Strolling through the amazing old town labyrinth we’re surprised to find ourselves surrounded by other churches & chapels : Chiesa di San Cataldo & Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (also known as La Martorana), dating back to the 12th century.

The myriad of churches & inciting corners gets even more impressive as one advances on the Via Maqueda.

Reaching the train station we take to the left and go towards the port - the Botanical Garden & the park Villa Giulia delight us.

I spot the pastry shops I was looking for - Bar Rosanero (the cassata in town - I can confirm) & the Bar Touring - both of them typical Sicilian - mirrors, curious & skilled bartenders, heavenly coffee & sweets/snacks.

Following the coastline towards the Piazza capitaneria di Porto - there’s the Foro Italico, il Palazzo Butera & the University. The best thing is to get lost in the area called Kalsa,

either towards Via Roma - where you’ll find Palazzo Valguarnera Gangi, Regio Teatro Santa Cecilia, or towards Piazza Aragona, via Vittorio Emanuele & Mercato Vucciria (a colorful market with street food & local products).

Another must-see is Piazza San Domenico & the Gran Café there. Going further on Via Roma you can’t go around noticing amazing buildings - most of them build in the 19th century, you’ll get to the Teatro Politeama & on Via Ruggiero Settimo, to the famous Teatro Massimo - the square in front is filled with restaurants & bars and is thus the place where in winter all young people hang out.

That is also the spot where the old town ends and an avenue ‘furnished’ with international shops begins.

But let's go back to the old town ! I pick a restaurant that reinterprets the Sicilian cuisine: Buatta Cucina Popolana. Fine choice indeed - local wines, dishes & desserts!

On our last day we accept the invitation of my compatriot, letting him take us to even less conspicuous places: we get to know the oldest & most famous spot for trying the local fingerfood “Nino U Ballerino” - I’m more of an arancino person, but I decide to try the panella & il panino con la milza - only in Palermo!…

Later on we drive to Monte Pellegrino: breathtaking views of the sea and the city! And get to visit the sanctuary of the Palermitani: the cliff-church of Santa Rosalia, who watches over the entire city...

Monreale was next - the small town is right outside Palermo and is mostly known for the impressive cathedral from the 12th century built in the Byzantine-Arab-Norman style - the majestic Byzantine mosaics reminded me of Hagia Sofia… It’s almost unbelievable such works of art can still be admired in the present...

And no visit in Monreale is complete without an espresso & a cannolo at the central bar -  when in Rome, do as the Romans do...

The last night in Palermo we spent taking to the hidden streets we had not explored yet and ended up in a traditional trattoria - Trattoria del Vicoletto, where we tried the fettuccine all’aragosta and their white wine. Dinner could not end without Limoncello, meeting the owner & the friendly waiters, with whom we ended up chatting for hours on end.

Awesome voyage - can one squeeze more stuff into 3 days? Hardly… and probably not in Palermo !

On Monday morning we had our sweet breakfast, said “ciao & a presto” to our hosts & took to Via Roma… ci rivedremo, Palermo!